Page 14
South Africa 
DAY 47
Feb
Johannesburg
to Middelburg
Hello!
We’d had a largely sleepless night on the plane the night before, but still we
had to get up early to get ready for this day’s ride. It seemed we had barely
gone to bed when the alarm rang. I wanted to just rollover and go back to sleep,
but I couldn’t do that because we had a 154 kilometer day to do. We had to
leave that beautiful hotel and start pedaling again. Everyone was tired. Some
people were staying behind to rest. But those of us who were riding lined up for
an early breakfast. What a contrast it was to most of our meals. At the head of
the line a headwaiter wearing a tuxedo controlled the flow so that everyone
would have seats at the tables in the hotel lobby. And what a breakfast! We were
ecstatic! Fresh fruit and granola, milk and juice, rolls and toast, ham and
sausage, properly cooked scrambled eggs, beans and broiled tomatoes, and all of
it served cheerfully and with smiles. It was a good send off for our first day
in South Africa.
Everyone
was a little concerned about bicycling out of Johannesburg because we would have
to remember to stay on the left side of the road. We went in groups and my group
did just fine. We were out of Johannesburg in no time and without incident. The
tricky part is when making a right turn onto another street. Not that day but
twice when I was riding alone later I found myself on the wrong side of the
street (the right side) after making a right turn, pedaling against the traffic.
Luckily it is easier to get out of a jam like that when on a bike than in a car.
While
pedaling along I noticed on the DRG that we would pass a bicycle shop at 22
kilometers. I decided then that my first priority for the day would be to get my
bike fixed and if it took too long and I couldn’t finish the ride that would
be okay. Many riders stopped there that morning for repairs and to buy tires,
chains, degreaser, gloves, socks, just all sorts of things. It was to be my
lucky day. Paul, the mechanic, was excellent. He fitted my bike with new brake
pads and a new headset. It took quite a long time though because he was
constantly interrupted by other riders with questions and because it was hard to
fit the headset. Apparently that part of the Odyssey bike is not of a standard
size. He had the tools and the skill to do it though and now my bike is fixed!
My handlebars don’t go crooked and I have brakes! Another rider, Bill, was
having new tires put on his bike. When we were about the only ones left in the
store he offered to wait for me so that we could ride together. That was
thoughtful of him. We’d been told not to ride alone in Africa and since this
was the first day we were still inclined to heed the warning. Finally we set out
but had gone only a few kilometers when Bill had a flat on his brand new rear
tire. We could not find
the cause or the hole in the tube and finally used another tube. That tube was
too big for his skinny new tire but eventually we got it together and started
again. I am a slow rider but Bill was incredibly slow. I could see how hard he
was working and he kept apologizing for holding me up. His bike was squeaking so
I asked him if he lubricated his chain regularly. No! Not for weeks! I got my 3
in 1 oil out and we gave the chain a good dose. After that his bike no longer
squeaked and he doubled his speed! While working on his chain I had the rear
wheel off the ground and that was when I noticed it was falling out. He had
forgotten to tighten and close the wheel quick release lever! We set out again
and as I said he had doubled his speed from 6 or 7 kph to 12 or so.
That
is still very slow really and he would fall way behind on hills and we would
have to stop so he could catch his breath. I could see that we were going no
where at this rate but once you commit to riding with someone you can’t duck
out just because he is having a bad day.
Finally
we tried spinning his back wheel and saw that it didn’t spin. On investigation
we discovered that he hadn’t centered the wheel properly after fixing the flat
and his brakes were rubbing on the rim. I had thought I would never find anyone
who knew less about bikes than I. After that we made a little better progress
but it was clear to both of us that too much time had been lost to be able to
finish the 154 km. ride. It was what we had expected after the delay at the
bicycle shop. At last we reached the checkpoint at 62 km. where we posed for
pictures under a welcome banner from the Nestle Corp., and were treated to free
glasses of Coke with our lunch. I ordered a Mexican burger and enjoyed it with
chili and cheese potato chips. There are many more flavors of chips available in
South Africa than I have seen elsewhere.
Remember
Judy, the killer bee lady? She
and her husband rode into the checkpoint while I was still there and when she
stopped we noticed that she was into some serious crying. Her husband explained
that she had been terrified by riding on the left side of the road and by all
the fast traffic. But there’s a happy ending to that story. She got into the
sag wagon that day but the next morning she was all smiles and back on her bike.
Bill
and I pedaled as far as we could that afternoon but eventually had to get sagged
because it would be dark before we could reach the campground. We’d done our
best and the sensible thing to do was quit and be safe.
When
doing a long ride something happens to you that makes it seem more important
than anything to finish. Maybe it is all the effort that has been put into the
ride. Truth is riding a bike long distances in less than favorable conditions is
hard work. The rider has made an investment of time and energy and becomes
determined to finish or else. We have had a couple of ugly incidents when
determined riders have been asked to stop and sag so that they won’t be riding
in the dark. In one incident it was a group of fast and capable women riders who
had ridden hard but it was just too late. The sag wagon pulled alongside and
asked them to stop but they kept going. Then the sag wagon got ahead of them and
a volunteer got out to stand in their path, waving her arms to get their
attention and to get them to stop. But they just kept riding straight at her
nearly mowing her down. In another incident an irate rider who’d been stopped
and told to sag, tried taking punch at a volunteer.
We
camped at the Garden Inn Conference Center. It sounds so fancy but in reality it
just another grassy place in which to pitch a tent. I got a great spot even
though it was late. A great spot first of all is dry and covered with grass,
level, near the gear truck and if at all possible near the bathrooms. My spot
met all those criteria. People were already eating as I pitched my tent and I
hurried to join them. This was an outdoor meal, with everyone sitting on the
grass to eat. A very polite dog was happy to eat the chicken skin and other
scraps of my meal.
Off
in the distance one could make out some buildings in which there were showers
and toilets. The buildings were unusual school buildings, a warren of hallways
with a bathroom here and there. There were many riders waiting and the water was
said to be cold so I opted for a spit bath. That was quick, easy, and
refreshing.
In
the morning as we were leaving bus loads of children were arriving. They seemed
to be surprised and delighted to see us.
Good-bye,
Alice
DAY 48-49
Feb
Middleburg to Dullstrom
Dullstroom
to Hazyview
Water
Everywhere
Lots
of hills, lots of rain. It was hard wet work to get there, and when I did, it
only got worse. The DRG at 105.6 kms said ‘Bear right as the road becomes
dirt.’ Read that MUD and WATER. The road was a mucky mess and the Dullstroom
Dam Caravan Campground was sodden. I put my tent up in the rain in the least
boggy place left near the gear truck. Then I gathered my stuff and enjoyed a TK&A
shower. These showers are inside tents, there is a tent for the women and a tent
for the men. Each tent has 4 showers. The water is usually hot and everyone
looks forward to a shower at the end of the day. I enjoyed my shower but when I
came out I was the only rider left in camp. They had shuttled everyone to dinner
about a kilometer away back down that muddy road. My choices were to have a
peanut butter picnic in my tent or to walk the muddy road in the pouring rain. I
walked not because I wouldn’t have been happy with peanut butter but because I
wanted to see if anyone had found a way to our next destination, Hazyview, by
car. Yes! A man
named Al was working on it and there would be room for me. I was tired and
wanted a day to rest because it was from Hazyview that we would go on a
safari. I expected that to be the highlight of my South African
experience and I wanted to be able to enjoy it. I sat awhile after dinner
waiting for my raincoat to dry in front of the fireplace. Then I got a shuttle
ride back to camp and found quite a lot of frantic activity. A big bus carrying
the Odyssey riders who had stayed behind in Johannesburg had just arrived. They
were going to their lockers in the gear trucks to get the things they would need
for the next couple of days. After one look at Dullstroom and our soggy
campground they had unanimously decided to keep the bus and go to Hazyview.
There was room for a few more on the bus so those who learned of the opportunity
first scurried to take down their tents and get what they needed until the gear
trucks would arrive in Hazyview the next day. People were tired, tired of
cycling, and tired of being soaking wet. So the busload set out about nine and
arrived in Hazyview near midnight. Luckily the youth hostel had beds enough for
all. But I wasn’t interested in getting to Hazyview at any cost, I wanted to
travel in the daylight so I could see what I had missed by not cycling. Going on
that bus was not the answer for me.
The
people of Dullstroom had rolled out the welcome mat for us. There was a welcome
sign and balloons decorated the entrance to the dining hall. The food was home
cooked and very delicious. They had a unique method of serving. Everything was
dished into separate plastic bowls with lids. By the time we had collected the
whole meal we had a tower of bowls. Then we walked across the way to the hotel
and found a place at a table to sit to eat.
Right
after breakfast the next morning we met at a cafe called the Rose Cottage to be
transported, bikes and all, to Hazyview. Any time we go off route, that is not
ride, we have to take our bikes with us. Happily there was time for a cup of
real coffee brewed in a tiny single-cup French press while we waited. Then the
vehicles arrived. One was a van and the other a ‘combee’. I am not sure what
all fits that classification, but 4-wheel drive type vehicles are included. Our
bikes were loaded on a trailer, we stowed our bike bags, found seats, and were
off. The ride was unremarkable except for the magnificent scenery. It would have
been a rewarding bicycle ride and I felt sorry for myself for missing it. We
stopped only once for photographs but if I had been on my bike I would have done
a lot more stopping. When we arrived in Sabie we had a rest stop and everyone
scurried around taking advantage of this rare opportunity to use an ATM machine
and to buy postcards, food, and African handicrafts.
Before
anyone was ready we had to get back into the vehicles and continue the drive to
Hazyview. It was a 158.8 km. trip according to the DRG, but because of the heavy
rain and flooding, a detour had to be taken which added another 45 km. to the
ride. The riders were cycling 200 km. that day, the most yet. We arrived at the
Hotel Numbi where we were to camp and had been there only a few moments when
Trueheart cycled in. Trueheart is the most amazing young man. He is 19 and
accompanied on this trip by his sister and father. He had been training with the
U.S. Olympic road racing team but gave that up to ride the Odyssey. He rides
like the wind and is beautiful to watch. He is always into camp hours before the
next rider. Of course none of us had ever seen him arrive and when he rolled in
so early in the day we were stunned and gave him a hero’s welcome. You would
be stunned too if you had seen the hills he had to climb and the headwind he had
to battle. We all took photos of our living legend.
We
inquired at the hotel reception and found that there was no laundromat in town
but that they would do our laundry for us. It is more expensive that way and it
is risky too because things tend to disappear. But when it rains every day and
all your clothes are wet and dirty you haven’t much choice. This time I lost
one piece of underwear and got someone else’s riding shorts instead of mine.
Hazyview
has a pretty name but there is nothing pretty about the community. It has been
built very haphazardly with no apparent plan in mind. Some shops are just shacks
or shelters. Most people
seem to be poor and unemployed. They stand about in crowds and just watch. I
felt like I was being watched as I used the ATM machine and hurried to put away
my money and leave the scene. I needed to find the post office but everyone I
asked apparently could not understand my question. I kept exploring until I
found it but it was a bit unnerving to be in town alone. Happily another rider
came into the post office while I was there so we walked back to the hotel
together.
I
went shopping in the supermarket. Here the main chain of markets is SPAR. It was
a big store with a range of items, but it also reminded me of the old commissary
in Dhahran. For example, there might be a zillion cans of tuna, shelves and
shelves of tuna, but all are the same.
I
took a room that night in the hotel, thinking I would offer to share it with
Susan when she rode in because she had shared her room with me on two rainy
nights. I also thought I would get more rest that way, but in the end I put my
tent up anyway to let it dry. I rather regretted taking the room. It wasn’t
raining so Susan didn’t want to share and I really like camping in my tent.
For the first time in many days the camping area was attractive and dry.
Goodbye,
Alice
Day 50-51
Feb
Kruger
National Park, Satara Camp, South Africa
Siyabona!
This is just so awesome! I am spending two days at the Satara rest camp in
Kruger National Park. It is late in the afternoon now and the air is filled with
the sounds of birds and insects. The yellow hornbills are exotic looking and
curious; they seem to like watching me as much as I do them. Irridescent blue
yellow-eyed birds called glossy starlings are bold enough to snatch morsels from
the hands of the people eating at outdoor tables.
We
left Hazyview at 9:30 this morning for the drive to Kruger. We thought we had
overnight reservations and reservations for three safaris as well. Unfortunately
the safaris were not reserved as promised. We will get to do only one starting
at 5:00 am tomorrow. That is a great disappointment, but we do have reservations
for the bungalows which are round little buildings with thatched roofs.
The
Park is completely fenced so that the animals can’t get out and destroy farm
crops. Soon after driving into the park we began seeing animals which are used
to seeing cars and do not flee until an excited tourist pokes his head and
camera out an open window. We saw giraffes, impalas, wildebeests, zebras,
elephants, a young blackbacked jackal that was leaping about in the tall grass
catching and eating insects, warthogs, guinea fowl, European roller birds, bee
eater birds, and other birds as well as bright yellow and green locusts and a
big millipede. Our driver was quick to spot everything and to stop so that we
could have a good look and take photos. We were so excited that we were climbing
over one another for better shots with our cameras.
The
other Odyssey riders in the van were Bob, Debbie, Gary, Michael, Donna and
Adrienne. Just one of the many benefits of a layover day is a chance to spend
time with other riders and to get acquainted with new people. On riding days
most of us don’t have time for socializing. We are too busy surviving. Of
course our conversation was almost entirely about the Odyssey and how we and
others are coping.
That
day passed all too quickly. After dark I walked across the lawn to where I could
see the spotlighted area outside this well-fenced compound. There is a waterhole
there. The intention is to attract animals to the waterhole to drink. Kruger
Park has cameras trained on this waterhole at Satara and on another waterhole at
Orpen. There has been so much rain recently though that there is water
everywhere. Waterholes are not as attractive as they usually are. You may tune
into these waterholes on the internet. I have two addresses: http://www.parks-sa.co.za
under Kruger National Park or http://www.africam.com.
The
heavy rains a week or so ago caused flooding in the park. We have seen the
damage to the river banks and trees. Some bridges are still underwater. The
southernmost part of the park where we had originally intended to go because it
is closer to our layover camp in Hazyview, is so washed out that that part of
the camp is closed. Our driver told us yesterday that five elephants were found
drowned and dead downstream. There must have been countless smaller animals. He
explained that the river did not fill gradually but that without warning a
sudden silent wall of water came surging down the river and caught the animals,
the tourists, and the local people by surprise. Stranded people were rescued by
helicopters. Luckily this flood happened during daylight hours otherwise people
would have been trapped indoors as their homes silently filled with water while
they slept.
We
had to get up early, at 4:30 am for the early morning game drive today. We rode
in a big open vehicle with bench seats and a canvas roof. I was happy to see
that there were no windows to get in the way while taking pictures. It was dark
for the first hour or so. We had two big spotlights but we actually didn’t see
many animals while it was still dark, only hyenas which were walking down the
road, and jackals which ran along in front of our vehicle. When it became
daylight we saw a lot more animals. The rarest animal we sighted was a leopard
of which there are only 800 in the park. Our guide said he seldom sees one and
was very excited to have found this one. None of us would have spotted it I am
sure as it was lying down and somewhat hidden in the tall grass. An animal I was
surprised to see so many of was the giraffe. I said they should rename this park
Giraffic Park. Other animals that we saw included silverbacked jackals, hyenas,
wildebeests, impalas, hippoes, zebras, baboons, ostriches, a secretary bird, and
elephants. Four points of interest: the driver told us that an elephant drinks
220 liters of water and eats 250 kilograms of food a day, a hippo can hold his
breath for 5 minutes, a hyena has the strongest jaws of any animal in the park,
able to exert 1700 pounds of pressure per square inch, and if a giraffe gets a
thorn stuck in its tongue not to worry, the tongue will shed its skin and the
thorn with it in a week’s time.
Now
we are in the bus and have to leave the park to return to Hazyview. I am sorry
to go. I would be happy to stay here forever to watch the beautiful animals and
birds.
Salakahle,
Alice
P.S. I have been told by a local ranger that the word siyabona (see ah bona) means ‘hello’ and the word salakahle (sala kath ay) means ‘good-bye’ in the Swazi language. Many languages are spoken here. I will hope to get by with English.
Today's Music
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South Africa
Odyssey Riders and Staff
