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Argentina 
South Africa 
Days 45-46
February
14-15, 2000
San
Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to Johannesburg, South Africa
We
did it!
Days
45 and 46 were the days that we moved from Stage 3 of our journey to Stage 4. We
were going to South Africa. It meant changing continents, which meant another
flight. Our first two flights had not gone well and had disrupted our plans and
thrown us off schedule, not to mention all the extra work and expense for TK&A.
Everyone was concerned about this third flight.
Bariloche
is a beautiful place and the ride from the horse pasture where we had camped to
the airport, about 30 kilometers, gave me a last look at the snowcapped Andes,
and the beautiful big lake, Lago Nahuel Huapi. I stopped in the town center to
buy some postcards and an Argentina pin for my cap then continued on my way to
the airport. I was to be there by 1:00 and only just made it in time because of
a strong headwind. I had stopped to buy food to eat at the airport too as I was
starving and had heard that there was little or nothing at the airport.
That was fortunate as it turned out. Once at the airport everything had
to come off the bike: pedals, bags, pump, water bottles. The tires had to be
deflated and the handlebars turned. Then I handed my bike over to the people who
would load the airplane and went inside with all my stuff: my sack lunch,
camelback, bike bags, helmet. Near
extinction because of starvation, I immediately ate my lunch, then went to the
departure lounge to wait.
This
time the plane was a 747, chartered from Air Gulf Falcon, a private company. We
had been assured that everythng would fit, just as with our last 2 flights when
of course it didn’t fit so we were in a wait and see mode. There was a concern
too about the choice of planes for this small airport. The only 747 that had
ever landed and taken off there was Air Force One. The runways were too short.
We knew our plane would be heavy.
We
waited and waited and our 3:00 departure time came and went. Finally
a beaming Tim Kneeland of TK&A appeared and told us that all the
bikes were on, leftover luggage would go in the extra seats. There were about
100 more seats than passengers. Around 5:30 we finally boarded and were
eventually underway. That was exciting. Everyone waited with fingers crossed and
wished the same wish, ‘Let this plane become airborne before reaching the end
of the runway’. Suddenly the plane gave a leap forward that threw us against
the back of our seats. We were off with a running start and I am sure
collectively holding our breath. It seemed to me that the race down the runway
went on forever before I finally felt the plane lift. There was a big cheer for
the pilot as we climbed into the sky. And as he had promised he turned the plane
and flew back so that we could have a last look at Bariloche, the lake Lago
Nahuel Huapi, and the Andes.
We
listened to all the safety instructions in 3 or 4 languages somewhat impatiently
as it was already past dinner time and we were hungry. But then they announced
that dinner would be delayed. In order lighten the load so that the plane could
take off from Bariloche, we had only a little fuel. We would stop in Buenos
Aires to refuel. Since the flight to Buenos Aires was only an hour and a half,
there would be no meal service until after leaving Buenos Aires. Of course those
of you who travel know what happened. We had been told we’d be on the ground
for one hour but in fact were delayed there forever it seemed. We were told to
stay seated and out of the way of people who had come on board bringing meals
and supplies. But it got hotter and hotter. People began to get up and mill
about trying to find cool air. I was very fortunate to be seated right at the
open doorway so I was comfortable enough. Finally the doors closed and we were
off again, this time headed nonstop for Johannesburg. At 11:30 pm dinner was
finally served.
I
ate my dinner and then tried to sleep. I may have had 3 hours of disturbed rest
before it was broad daylight in the plane and I gave up the effort to sleep. The
crew were banging about preparing to serve breakfast. Even on the plane the
coffee was Nescafe!
Then
I remembered the offer the Captain had made. Early in the flight it had been
announced that we were welcome to visit him in the cockpit after dinner. He had
come around then shaking hands with everyone. He was our hero for getting us off
that short runway and anyway everyone was interested in meeting a prince from
Qatar who owned his own airline. After breakfast I climbed the spiral staircase
to the upper deck where I found Tim Kneeland hard at work on his computer. He
told me that the prince had invited us to stop in Qatar on our way from Capetown
to Greece when once again we would be using his plane. He had even offered to
arrange a camel safari for us. I went into the cockpit where our pilot, the
prince, posed for a picture and I told him I was excited about his offer of a
stopover in Qatar. There hasn't been a word about it yet from TK&A, I hope
they are working on it.
What
a long flight! We had had 11 hours of flying time and at least half as many more
of waiting time. But at last we made a smooth landing in Johannesburg.
It
was a long wait but eventually the
bicycles and luggage were all unloaded. While we waited many of us stood
in line at the ATM machine to withdraw South African money. The paper bills are
rands and the coins are cents. There are about 6 rands to a dollar. If we want
to think about how much something would cost in dollars we have to divide the
rand price by 6. In Mexico
and Chile the notes were called pesos, in Panama U.S. dollars and coins were
used, in Argentins the paper bills were called dollars and one Argentine
dollar was equal to one U.S. dollar. That was easy to calculate!
Al
was waiting for me, she does everything quickly, and we rode into Johannesburg
to our hotel, the City Lodge, together. It was an easy 6 kms but we were all
somewhat breathless anyway trying to make the adjustment to riding on the wrong
side (the left side) of the road. Luckily we made it safely but it was a bit
nerve wracking. It didn't help that I had forgotten to move my mirror to the
right side of my helmet. As a result I couldn't see the traffic behind me.
Our
hotel was beautiful. We really regretted that we could stay only that night
instead of 2 as had originally been planned. Because of the time change we
skipped lunch and went right to dinner. We'd have to get up early the next
morning to ride, so here we were in Johannesburg and all we would see of it was
the airport. Some people were so tired that they booked rooms in the hotel for
the next two nights, staying behind in Johannesburg and finally caught up with
us by bus in Hazyview three days later.
Because
of the time change we had missed lunch and were on our way to dinner as soon as
we had checked to see whether we had mail. I had several items including a big
envelope full of Valentine cards and letters from the third grade class of Mrs.
Wollak in Dhahran. I was pleased to read those and everyone at dinner was
envious of all my good mail. Some of the children who had written had been in my
second grade class last year. It was special to hear from them. Mrs. Wollak
wrote that they are following my journey by reading the web page, so, boys and
girls, if you are reading this, thank you!
Dinner
was at Mozzarella’s Italian Restaurant only a couple of blocks away. We had
three different pasta and sauce choices, salad, and hot thin crispy wedges of
bread. It was a delicious meal.
Once
back at the hotel Al was in bed in a flash, while I struggled to sort and
repack, making a great racket with plastic bags and zippers. Finally I gave up,
transferred the whole mess from the bed to the floor and crawled in. It felt so
good to stretch out in bed after our long journey but I slept poorly, maybe
because of jet lag, or maybe because I was so excited about riding in South
Africa.
Good-bye, Alice
Today's Music
??
Odyssey Riders and Staff
