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Greece 
Italy 
The SUPERFAST FERRY II
Patra,
Greece to Bari, Italy
Now
we are having fun! The Superfast Ferry is fast, we are zooming along. Someone
said at 27 knots, but I don’t know. It surprises me to look out the back of
the boat and see that there is no wake.
Our
adventure began last night when we assembled with our bikes and a bag of
overnight necessities on the dock. We were given a room assignment and then we
walked our bikes down and down metal ramps to the lowest level of the ferry.
There
we parked them head to tail, all snugged together to conserve space. While our
bikes overwhelm an airplane, they occupied only a small bit of that deck on this
enormous ferry.
After
parking the bikes we climbed the stairs up several levels, waiting in line on
the stairs to receive a room assignment and key. As usual it was a long wait
because there are so many of us and because there was a misunderstanding between
TK&A and the Fastferry staff. It was stifling in that staircase. Finally we
were told to find 3 roommates and appear together at Reception to get a room
number and key. Biker Al and I had been assigned to room together so we quickly
scooped up two new roommates, Allison and Shelli, got our keys and found our
room. Make that “cubbyhole”. It was very hot in the room, well into the 90’s
but we thought that might change once the ferry sailed. We each had a bunk, the
two upper bunks were folded against the wall until needed. We had a complete
bathroom including warm water in the shower. To top it off we had an outside
room, our window looked out the bow of the ferry! We thought it was wonderful,
much much better than spending a night on an airplane.
Later
though the reality was something less than wonderful. It way too hot in there
and it took 3 requests and about that many hours to have someone appear to fix
the problem. Both Al and Allison were sick with bad colds, Al was at the
recovery stage but Allison was just getting started. She was burning with fever,
short of breath, and coughing constantly. It promised to be a poor night. But
worst of all, Al made no bones about being annoyed at rooming with Allison and
all the germs floating around and how we would all be sick. Soon she had poor
Allison in tears. We three were on our bunks, roasting in the hot room, unable
to sleep for the heat, coughing, and grumbling when Judy and Dorothy stopped to
chat. Our door was open and I imagine they heard Allison coughing. Judy produced
some cough drops and that almost immediately gave Allison some relief. Then
Shelli our 4th roommate, popped in. She went to find another rider, Anita, who
is a doctor. Anita asked a lot of questions, listened to Allison breathe and
offered advice. Allison was grateful and happier and had a restful night. She
feels much better this morning.
Our
dinner and breakfast were served in the cafeteria, the trays all ready so that
it would be fast and we couldn’t heap our plates, and we were encouraged to
eat and run so that others could be seated. But the food was very good and we
were full and content.
There
is a duty free shop, a bar, a casino, and a swimming pool on the ferry but I
didn’t take advantage of them. I did enjoy watching our departure from Patra
which looked beautiful in the sunset with the high snow covered mountains behind
it.
Now
the ferry has docked in Bari, Italy and the sun is shining. Soon we will descend
into the bowels of the ship to find our bikes and disembark. We are ready to
begin our Italian adventure.
Goodbye,
Alice
Bari
to Alberobello
Today
we arrived in Bari, Italy via the Fast Ferry from Patra, Greece. The unloading
went without a hitch and soon we were on our way. Within a couple of minutes I
was knocked over by a tandem passing me on the right without warning. It is
customary to call out ‘passing on the left’ or ‘on the right’ depending
on the country. Here in Italy it would be correct to pass on the left.
I didn’t even see them coming. I think they thought they could squeeze
by but their panniers got me. We had just made a left turn onto a major street.
I was concentrating on the traffic and all the bicycles in front of me. So I’ve
learned another lesson, I will stay out of an intersection until the other
bicycles have passed. Some riders always want to get ahead and take unnecessary
risks. Luckily for me the cars were stopped and I just toppled over onto the
fender of the car beside me. But I hit the fender hard enough to knock the wind
out of me and now I feel bruised on that side and it is painful to move.
Bummers. I got back on my bike and rode but it wasn’t fun. Thankfully for me
it was a short day.
Everyone
is happy to have left Greece and to be in Italy. Today was sunny and much warmer
but the important difference is the people. In Greece we were largely ignored.
Once in awhile a driver would give me a thumbs up or a honk and a wave, but the
people on the streets and working around their homes ignored us and didn’t
respond to a shouted greeting. Today though Italians of all ages cheered us on
shouting greetings of welcome and encouragement. It looks like cycling in Italy
will be fun.
The
air is grey and dirty. We did not go through an industrial area so the pollution
must come from cars and from farmers burning old crops or pruned olive tree
branches. In Greece those branches were given to the goats before being burned,
but there don’t seem to be goats here. There were acres and acres of olive
trees and vineyards on our route today.
Also
on our route was the Castellana Grotte or cave. I took the tour and was
impressed with how extensive the cave is and the enormity of some of the rooms.
There were huge stalactites and stalagmites. Obviously the cave has been there
for millions of years but was only discovered in 1939. There is a large opening
at ground level (about 200 meters above the floor of the cave) so I wonder how
it took so long for anyone to notice it. Bats and mice live in the cave. We
could hear the bats but I didn’t see either the bats or the mice.
The
other special attraction today was a type of home called a trulli. From the
outside these homes have squared walls and conical roofs made of long flat
bricks. Inside the homes are circular. (I read that, I haven’t been in one.)
The story going around is that in the 14th century this architectural style came
about as a way to avoid high taxes. Mortar was not used to hold the bricks
together, apparently the conical shape made mortar unnecessary. When the time
came for the tax collector to come to town people quickly dismantled their
homes, (or at least removed the roofs) to make their houses less valuable and
thus avoid heavy taxes. It’s a good story anyway. There are many of them here
in Alberobello.
Goodbye,
Alice
Greece
